After two short sails from Shelter Bay, we arrived in Turtle Cay Marina. There we settled in and got to work ordering parts, upgrading our plumbing and generally enjoying this remote marina on Panama’s Caribbean coast.
Lightning in Linton Bay
After departing Shelter Bay Marina, we made our way to the end of the breakwater and motored off into the swell of the Caribbean for the very first time. Immediately squalls began dumping rain all around us as we motored through the many large ships anchored outside the protected harbor. Despite the thunder and lightning, these squalls proved rather mild in terms of wind so we motor-sailed the short distance to Isla Naranja just East of Colon. Anchored in the lee of the island, we enjoyed several comfortable nights on the hook as squall after squall swept across the coastline, at times completely obscuring the nearby island shoreline.
Lightning was fast becoming the theme of our first trip into the Caribbean. When the squalls subsided for an afternoon, we motored around the corner to Linton Bay and set the hook amidst the many moorings on the West side of the marina. But soon after sundown, the squalls returned, treating us to a light show unlike any we had experienced before. Thunder crackled and boomed continuously for nearly an hour, echoing off the hillsides, shaking us through the hull. Lightning flashed every 5 to 10 seconds turning the sky a brilliant purple hue. Several bolts struck close by on land leaving steam hanging in the air.
Turtle Cay Marina
After a few days, the squalls subsided briefly and we moved on to our new summer home at Turtle Cay Marina. This quiet, remote marina is surrounded by jungles, swamps, beaches and reefs (and little else). Aside from the small restaurant and several vacation rentals nearby, there wasn’t much activity to speak of. Most other visiting boats were empty; parked for the off-season. But the marina staff and management were eager to help deliver provisions, share rides and provide assistance. Despite being so far from the population centers of Panama, Turtle Cay Marina turned out to be the perfect place to park, repair and relax during our extended stay.
Exploring our new surroundings
After settling in, we began to explore our surroundings. The dense nature that envelopes the grounds was evident even from the piers. Howler monkeys routinely rested in the trees just across the basin from our slip, parrots fed on palm fruits near the boatyard, and bright butterflies hovered in the shadows along the long driveway leading into the jungle. There were long, sandy beaches on either side of the marina and a rocky point, all a short walk away. Snorkeling near the protected entrance offered spectacular views of tropical fish, coral and even a shipwreck.
The remoteness of the marina posed a challenge when it came time to get basic provisions. The nearest small town, Nombre de Dios, situated about 8 km up a dirt road offered two small stores with basic groceries and some hardware. But true convenience came to us two nights a week, when a local grocer delivered fresh fruits and vegetable directly to the Marina on his way to and from deliveries in even more remote locations farther down the road. We enjoyed a steady supply of fresh pitaya (dragonfruit), rambutan, and maracuya (passionfruit) along with staples like onions, potatoes, cucumbers and tomatoes.
On our many outings into the jungle we encountered all sorts of unique species of flora, fauna and fungi. Shortly after our arrival, the mango trees began producing ripe fruit, and we routinely collected young coconuts. Kiwi quickly made friends with the local pack of dogs who taught her the best places to harass the monkeys. In addition to the howlers, we saw squirrel monkeys, squirrels, sloths, tamarin monkeys, toucans and toucanets (slightly smaller beaks than typical toucans).
Though not quite as intense as the Linton Bay light show, showers and thunderstorms cropped up most evenings. Several larger, persistent storms pushed large, short period swell onto the surrounding reefs, and sent strong surge into the marina entrance. But in between the clouds, the sun steamed the landscape, keeping temperatures and humidity high day and night.
Getting to work on Rua Hatu
Despite all of the rain, we still have plenty of work to do on Rua Hatu. Our small window-hung AC unit keeps the interior of the boat dry and cool, which certainly helps with the indoor projects. But work outdoors is still quite a challenge both because of rain and the sauna-like heat, not to mention the mosquitoes. All of this wears you out very quickly. As we wait for materials for our bigger projects, we try our best to work outside on overcast days and stay in the shade as much as possible, all the while staying extra hydrated!
Soon Janine will leave to visit family in Europe, and Nic, Kiwi, Coco and Milka will hold down the fort here in Turtle Cay Marina.