As we continue to explore the inside of the Nicoya Peninsula, we relish in the numerous similarities between our old sailing grounds of Puget Sound and our current environment. Both have ferry rides, wildlife, desolate beaches and rainforest. The only difference is the temperature.
Isla Cedros & Isla Jesusita
Though the southern end of the Nicoya Peninsula offered us some protection from the swell, we sought even calmer waters farther north. After a fast sail from Curu, through the shallow pass between Islas Negritos, we rounded the back side of Isla Cedros to anchor in the lake-flat waters between Isla Jesusita. The only turbulence we encountered here came from the passing ferry on its way between Paquera and Puntarenas.
Both islands were sparsely inhabited and hosted fishing, aquaculture, agriculture and camping activities. The howler monkeys and macaws here were joined in their singing by cows and two particularly loud Beagles barking and howling after small shore birds. It began to feel a bit like Whidbey Island back in Washington State, though the heat was noticeably higher.
Ferry Ride to Puntarenas
To change things up a bit, we decided to take the short dinghy ride over to the nearby Paquera ferry landing and hop onboard the Tambor III to Puntarenas for the day. Unlike the ferries in Puget Sound, the 75 minute ride here cost only 850.00 Colones (about a $1.40). As we approached Puntarenas, we could see a cruise ship docked at the nearby pier. Oddly enough, it happened to be one of Norwegian Line’s cruise ships we had seen a year before anchored in La Paz, Mexico.
We browsed the streets of sleepy Puntarenas in search of some grub, but we found only few open restaurants during our Saturday afternoon visit. Eventually we ordered a pizza from an outdoor venue and beat the heat in the shade of a pavilion. Finally we loaded up on groceries before heading back to the Ferry for our return trip to Paquera.
Isla Muertos
Next we indulged our Halloween spirit at Isla Muertos (or Gitano as the marketing refers to it), just a short anchor-to-anchor sail from Cedros. On shore, the (haunted) campground played host to only a handful of maintenance workers (and numerous ghosts boo). At low tide, we explored the shoreline and hiked between several nearby rock outcrops. Nearly all of the trees skirting the shoreline were covered with bromeliads of varying colors and shapes. The only downside to this tranquil anchorage was the accumulation of plastic trash along the high tide lines. Unfortunately it will take much more than our 36 foot sailboat to haul away the mess.
Isle of Dogs
With time to kill and some sunshine in the forecast, we decided to head back to Cedros. This time we anchored on the Southern shore between the island and the peninsula. After spending one rolly night amongst large rocks and another in strong tidal currents, we took the advice of a local fisherman and moved to a tiny anchorage in front of a palm-lined beach. There we found a network of well maintained trails that carry the locals to and from the various homes on the island.
We also came upon a pack of three friendly dog on shore there. They were hungry for attention (and treats) and happily romped with Kiwi on the beach as we made some minor repairs to the dinghy floor. All three seemed dismayed when the time came to paddle back to the boat, so they jumped in and followed. For the remainder of our time at Cedros, the trio came to visit daily and hung out until their dinner bell rang back at home.
Having seen much of the interior islands of the Nicoya Peninsula, we await a weather-window to cross over to the mainland and head further south toward Golfito. We certainly enjoyed the comfortable waters and peaceful atmosphere of this region immensely and the wildlife and wilderness we encountered was unforgettable. Now we look forward to more adventures, once the winds allow.