We leave behind the exposed northern coastline for a bit of protection inside Costa Rica’s Nicoya Peninsula. Between the (many) raindrops, we manage to spot some truly amazing wildlife as we island hop on our way up the inside of the peninsula.
Bahia Ballena
After rocking and rolling all the way from Tamarindo, we were ready to hide from the open ocean for a bit. Thankfully, Bahia Ballena at the southern end of the Nicoya Peninsula appeared to offer reasonable protection from the prevailing swell. We anchored in shallow water just beyond the moorings surrounding the fishing co-op on the southwestern shore of the bay. Though significantly calmer than our previous anchorages, we still had to deploy our flopper-stopper to keep from rolling in the light swell that rounded into the bay, particularly on outgoing tides.
The rain set in almost immediately upon arrival, and persisted with lightning and thunder through the next three nights. The daily overcast severely hampered our solar charging abilities, but the heavy downpours allowed us to replenish our tanks with rainwater. We had enough water to do several much needed loads of laundry, but drying proved difficult in this moist environment.
Despite the logistical challenges, we enjoyed an abundance of wildlife thanks to the rainforests around us. Flocks of Scarlet Macaws cruising through the palm trees on shore, howler monkeys calling out at sunset from the mountains above, oh and even a small (unfortunately dead) crocodile at the mouth of a nearby river. Kiwi split her time between chasing the large red squirrels that taunted her from the date palms and romping with the friendly local doggos that live along the waterfront.
Isla Tortuga & Isla Alcatraz
After sailing off the anchor at Ballena, we returned to the swell for a brief journey around Isla Tortuga and anchored on the far side of Isla Alcatraz. Tortuga is home to a sheltered, shallow water cove with palm trees, palapas and beach activities, while Alcatraz is entirely undeveloped with steep, jungle covered cliffs. Though we were visiting in the “off season” a handful of beachgoers arrived at Tortuga daily via pangas and tour boats. We spent our afternoons enjoying the small beach on Alcatraz, where we encountered numerous hermit crabs, brightly colored caterpillars and signs of turtle nests in the sand.
Bahia Curu
A short motorsail from Alcatraz and we arrived at Bahia Curu, home to the Curu Wildlife Refuge. Unfortunately for Kiwi, pets were prohibited on shore in order to protect the native fauna, but our human crew enjoyed a hike through the pristine jungles of the refuge. There we saw vibrant colored fungi, butterflies and birds among the many rivers and creeks that flow into the bay. We encountered a team of coatimundis as they snacked on palm seeds and finally saw howler monkeys for the first time since our arrival!
Thoroughly wet, but much less rolly, the Nicoya Peninsula has been a welcomed stop on our journey through Costa Rica. With no desire to return to the swell of the open ocean just yet, we plan to continue exploring more of the inlet before heading south toward Golfito.