After checking into Costa Rica in Playas Del Coco, we spend the first weeks exploring the coast along the Nicoya Peninsula in beautiful Guanacaste Province in northern Costa Rica. And we get a new dinghy!
A remote beach at Guacamaya
Our first stop is a small, remote beach called Guacamaya. According to the marine charts it is known as a good snorkeling and diving spot. Unfortunately the water was very murky when we arrived. Swimming felt great in 30C warm water and we enjoyed our morning and evening walks with Kiwi on the lonely beach with strange signs.
Hiding from hurricane Julia in Bahia Flamingo
After a calm few days at Guacamaya, we anchor in Bahia Flamingo next to the brand new marina. Originally we only planned to stop here briefly to get diesel and receive our new dinghy and then continue south.
But we decided to spend a few extra days here as hurricane Julia was approaching from the Caribbean, ready to cross the isthmus over into the Pacific. This would mean a lot of rain, some wind, and high surf. Bahia Flamingo provided us with the best protection from the swell and wind compared to any location further south.
After two gloomy, heavily overcast days at Bahia Flamingo, we did not receive nearly as much wind or rain as we had expected. The swell was very uncomfortable and we had to put out our “flapper-stopper” to reduce rolling from side-to-side. After the hurricane entered the Pacific it dissolved pretty quickly but not before inundating many local communities with torrential amounts of rain.
While we waited for better weather, we explored the area around Bahia Flamingo. Besides a well-stocked grocery store, to our amusement, it also included a “Margaritaville” resort.
Rest in peace, daily driver!
For a few months now we had been having issues with our old dinghy. We got it when we bought Rua Hatu and even then it was already very well used. Now it is time for us to say goodbye to our well-appreciated commuter.
Since we do not have access to vehicles to take us to landfills, we have to get inventive to be able to dispose of large items without upsetting the local communities. Nic decided to cut out the wooden transom and the couple of pieces of hardware from the vinyl. Then he proceeded to cut the vinyl into shreds and fill two trash bags with it. Over the next couple of days we took the parts and disposed of them in large trash cans by the road. Rest in peace, old dinghy.
Our new, sharp-looking commuter!
Since trying to keep the old dinghy afloat for a long time, Nic was already on top of it and found us a new dinghy online. The seller drove with his friend and both of their families (total of eight people) in a small SUV from Costa Rica’s capital, San José, to Bahia Flamingo to meet us and deliver the dinghy. In the meantime we had to rely on our stand up paddle board (SUP) to take us and Kiwi to and from shore at least twice daily.
Tamarindo – We call it the washing machine
Now refilled with diesel and a new dinghy, we set sails south to Playa Tamarindo. It already began with the approach to the anchorage. We knew this was a great spot for surfing. Now we know that it is definitely not a good spot for getting a good night’s sleep. We anchored in about 8 meters but the waves were high enough to lift us about 2 additional meters with every wave. Needless to say we couldn’t sleep much that night. Not because we didn’t trust our anchor but because we could not stay inside our beds. Rolling side to side and pitching back and forth. In the morning we quickly packed up and left Bahia Tamarindo without even trying to land on the beach. Because we would’ve surely been left soaking wet.
Next we explore the southern edge of the Nicoya Peninsula and experience what it means to live near tropical rainforests.
