Whale Washing (Ashore)

Spring is in the air here in the beautiful PNW. Unfortunately COVID-19 is still lingering in that same air, making it difficult to plan what comes next on our journey.

We had hoped to be underway by now, cruising through the San Juan Islands and likely entering into Canadian waters via the Gulf Islands before meeting up with my parents in Vancouver, BC at the end of this month. Of course the US/Canada border, closed since March 21st, will officially remain so until at least the middle of May. With the way things are going here in America, I’m hesitant to get my hopes up for a journey up the inside passage anytime this year, but we shall remain optimistic and socially-distant as we plan what comes next. Perhaps we’ll head south earlier than anticipated…

Flowers blooming, birds chirping, bees buzzing and social distancing mark the beginning of spring

To that end, we are unbelievably fortunate to be at anchor, as far northwest as one can get in the US. Having lived and worked in this area for the last three years, we are afforded a great deal of freedom to come ashore and get groceries (and let the doggo do her business). While other boat’s are now routinely turned away due to the lock down, we are familiar faces here and recognized by the local authorities. Thus we do our best to limit our time on shore and try to remain safe and out of everyone’s way. To further limit our exposure, we’ve taken to landing on a small undeveloped island at the end of the breakwater for our daily exercise. We try not to linger any longer than necessary, but having access to such a beautiful place has made the isolation much more tolerable (Kiwi fully agrees).

Panorama taken from the northern point of the island were we get our daily (much needed) exercise.

Another factor that has made the lockdown much more exciting: Whales! And plenty of them! It seems the humpbacks are right on time for their annual spring arrival in Puget Sound. Our first encounter came last week, as we returned from shore aboard Smokey (our dinghy). We were both surprised to find the end of the floats empty of the usual sea lion cohort as we motored out toward the breakwater. Just then, a loud hiss erupted ahead of us and we nearly collided with a whale who had ventured into the marina. After quickly cutting the engine, we watched as the whale dove just feet from our bow. Thankfully no one was hurt and we all continued on our merry way (though Kiwi could hardly contain her excitement).

Since this first encounter, we’ve seen spouts all around the harbor, with the occasional fluke raised in the distance. Just yesterday, we were followed ashore by two whales as we landed on the island for an evening hike. They loitered just off the shelf among the kelp as we climbed up a small bluff to watch them. Unfortunately neither Janine nor I have been quick enough on the draw to catch a good photo of them yet, but I’m keeping my drone ready for the right opportunity to capture a glimpse of these giants from above.

Sadly, our best view of a whale came just two days ago, as we hiked down a beach on the outer coast. This old giant died and washed ashore perhaps only hours before we arrived, as the body had not yet bloated or decomposed. I’m certainly no expert on marine mammals, but with the recent uptick in strandings along the California coast, I worry that these magnificent creatures remain in very troubled waters, pardon the pun. Though Dolphins may have returned to the Mediterranean coastline thanks to reduced human impacts during the pandemic, certainly humanity’s long-term impacts to the environment won’t be remedied by a short-term shutdown. Perhaps the COVID virus can be a catalyst for changing our collective behavior for the betterment of our planet and our lives… At any rate, we are safe and happy (albeit a bit bored now and then) aboard Rua Hatu, wishing for health and resilience for all as we face this strange new world.